Introduction and History
From childhood, the question ‘Why?’ has always been one of my favourites, and in the working world this hasn’t changed.
When I moved to work in London, although learning much, many of my questions about food remained unanswered. Maybe this was down to typical chef arrogance, maybe to lack of time, perhaps it was even due to the answers not being known.
I bought a book called ‘Formulas for Flavour’ by John Campbell of The Vineyard.
Looking through, I thought it was a great book, but it wasn’t until a few months later when I read the ‘theory’ section at the back, it began to change the view I had of my profession.
Since the age of thirteen I had been cooking green vegetables in boiling water and refreshing them into ice water, understanding that this process kept them both crisp and green. I discovered from John’s book exactly why this happens. Food was no longer just ingredients that were to be mixed, chilled or heated... rather, food became limitless. I instantly realised that by developing an understanding behind the scientific principles of cooking, many boundaries to creating the perfect dish could be stretched or entirely removed.
When I arrived to work for The Vineyard I wasn’t disappointed. One day Executive Chef John Campbell approached me and asked,
“Make me a mayonnaise without using eggs. I want it to be meaty”
Obviously I replied,
“Sure, do you have a recipe or an idea how?”
John didn’t expect a question back from me, he just walked away.
So making that mayonnaise is what I set out to do. It was an enormous headache as at the time I wasn’t even too sure how egg yolks emulsified the oil into a mayonnaise, let alone did I know of an ingredient that would give me the same effect. I can’t help but think that John gave me that task not because he wanted a meaty mayonnaise (which was used as a dressing, flavoured with lamb stock and sherry vinegar) but actually because he knew the path it would lead me down.
So how was it done? Well… egg yolks contain an emulsifier called Lecithin. Similar to the way Velcro works on fabrics, Lecithin hooks onto fat and water, allowing the two to bind. This was a few years ago and to get hold of Lecithin was no easy task. I looked into where else I could find it and discovered it is one of the ingredients in chocolate…
Learning more about Lecithin I discovered it is known as a lipid - a fat-soluble molecule. Other lipids include soap and gelatine. I knew meat stocks contain gelatine (that’s what gives them viscosity), and I predicted that if the stocks were reduced enough, then the gelatine, acting as a lipid, would emulsify the oil. I got it right!
From here I began to study extensively and experiment with the following core components of the human diet;
- Protein
- Fat
- Carbohydrates
I soon discovered for myself how each of these components can be broken down into the building blocks of almost every ingredient.
My own questions began to answer themselves, so instead of asking ‘why?’ I asked ‘how?’ or ‘what if?’ and so I began to pioneer brand new, never seen before cooking techniques, recipes and dishes.
A host of experiments, extensive research and a lot of time spent working on my ideas has led me to where I am now.
Sous Vide Cookery as an Example
This process involves taking any cut of meat from a tender piece of beef fillet to a tough shoulder of pork and cooking it in a controlled environment - a vacuum.
Take a portion of beef fillet for example. All air is removed inhibiting any loss of flavour, and preventing any influencing flavours from other items contaminating the beef. It is then cooked at a specific temperature in a waterbath for a set amount of time, which is determined by the cooking degree (generally medium rare for beef). The waterbath is set and the meat placed inside. The meat is only removed when the centre of the portion is at the same temperature of the water. The effect of the water bath ensures that the portion of beef is medium rare from the very edge and all the way through.
Conventionally the outsides of the beef will be well-done, and then moving inwards... medium well, medium, with the small inside quarter being medium rare. This is standard conduction from a high heat source (roasting in a pan or oven).
Through the Sous Vide cooking of meat, the reduced temperature eliminates any shrinkage. This not only yields a better portion that is far more moist, but also eliminates the need to rest the meat. It is the shrinking of the connective tissue that adds pressure to the protein mass of the portion, that causes the meat to bleed on the plate if it is not allowed to rest (or cool) sufficiently.
Sous vide cooking does not shrink this connective tissue.
This style of cooking means the meat is always perfectly cooked, always perfectly moist, but also of the perfect temperature! The portion is re-generated at a temperature where it cannot over-cook regardless of time. Within fifteen minutes it is ready, but is still ready two hours after that point. The speed in which a guest eats is no longer a critical window of opportunity. No guest wants to wait for a chef and rightfully so, it’s the other way around. This style of cooking achieves total consistency but also allows more attention to detail on the garnishes and presentation of the dish.
When guests are ready for the beef dish, the meat is removed from the bags, seasoned, and sealed for seconds in a hot pan to achieve the roasted brown look and flavour on the very outside of the meat.
Each type of meat and every cut have a specific associated time and temperature. Some will need to be marinated or cured. Some braised, some cooked en confit. Like for like comparisons to conventional results are far superior.
My cooking has the solid foundation of classic training, but I also have the scientific knowledge to always prepare the perfect dish. The fundamental understanding behind the reactions and limitations of ingredients allows me to modernise comforting classics with a far superior flavour and texture, without fail.
What This Means for Your Menu
My approach to creating dishes and menus always begins with a scientific base. This allows for scope across a variety of disciplines and approaches to cooking as well as those aforementioned here.
My approach allows me the freedom to create almost any dish, from a variety of ingredients whilst at the same time guaranteeing a superior quality, flavour and texture with a 100% success rate.
If you require that ‘showpiece dish’ to amaze your guests, something never before seen, yet alone tasted, I can do that for you.
If you require one of your favourite dishes as a part of your menu, you will find it to have an enhanced flavour, a better texture on the pallet and visually more appealing.
Whatever your needs, wants or desires for your dinner party, there will always be a way they can be met and exceeded.